Makeup: LOVE TWAIN Beauty Talk with Ali Buss

When it came to hair and beauty, the LOVE TWAIN AW16 shoot was all about the shaggy chop and accentuating our models natural features. We turned to make up guru Ali Buss to create a look that was nothing short of breathtaking. Because minimal make up that pops and highlights all the right features is more than a stroke of the brush and some lip gloss. Here Ali talks us through the step by step process of creating Holly’s beauty look.

Just like the care and attention to detail poured into her art, Ali has taken the time to explain how each product works and why you need it in your make up bag now.

Let's talk BASE baby!

The key to fresh and flawless photographic skin is skin prep!! So I started with a generous spray of Fix + by MAC (I can’t live without this product). It helps to rejuvenate and hydrate the skin and to ensure an even base for smooth makeup application. You can let this absorb into the skin naturally, or use a foundation brush to massage it into the skin.

Next I wanted to turn that hydration level up a notch, so I added a generous coverage of Lightful C Marine Bright Formula, also by MAC, which is a beautiful brightening serum that activates the skin by plumping, conditioning and moisturising for that inner glow and radiance!

Following this, you need to prime that beautiful base! My go to primer for that luminous look is Laura Mercier’s Radiance Primer, with Vitamins A, C and E that act as antioxidants; meaning this product is to die for! Think pearlescent, soft looking skin that instantly glows!! It’s perfect for paler skin tones too as it has a slight fleshy tint to it.

Let's talk COVERAGE...

Time to start that flawless foundation! Using a Real Techniques foundation brush. I applied an even coverage of Face & Body Foundation in C1 by MAC. This is a water based foundation that’s easy to work with because it’s buildable and has a light to medium coverage. I also mixed in a NARS illuminator called Copacabana which is a sheer shimmering, light reflecting liquid for that next level glow.

You could leave it there if you’re just wanting to achieve a fresh day look, but for photographic makeup we need to create a coverage that’s a little stronger so I added a layer of MACs Studio Fix Foundation in the colour NC15 with a beauty blender which ensured a smooth, flawless application!

BROW game strong!

We wanted to create a strong bold brow, so using Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Wiz in Medium Brown I defined Holly’s brows and filled them in with Anastasia Beverly Hills Dipbrow Pomade in Dark Brown to add a bit of drama!!

EYES EYES baby....

To ensure Holly’s eyeshadow would last throughout the duration of the shoot I layered her lids with Layin’ Low– a highly pigmented cream paint pot by MAC which is absolutely key for that long lasting shadow (and a makeup kit must have)! This product is best to use with your finger as it melts with ease into the skin.  Then I evenly shaded Holly’s lids with a translucent setting powder by Laura Mercier to create an easy- to-blend base.

We wanted to achieve a really natural makeup look for the shoot so her eyeshadow was kept quite basic. To create Holly’s ‘barely there’ look I used; Inglot eye shadow in colour 368 on the lid  and Mac shadow in Grain in the crease and on her lower lash line to contour her eyes. Then to intensify this, and balance out the amazing bangs Jason had created, I added a swipe of Hot & Cold and Hot Chocolate shadows from the Anastasia Beverly Hills Self Made palette to the lower lash line which helped make her eyes pop!

To finish Holly’s eye look I used a thin coat of Chanel’s inimitable intense mascara in Noir and using a damp beauty blender, cancelled out any eyeshadow fallout by concealing her under eye with Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer in Vanilla  (Tip: make sure the beauty blender is used when damp to avoid that cakey look)!


For Holly’s flushed peachy cheeks I stepped away from using a bronzer and added a swipe of Laura Mercier Second Skin Cheek Colour in Sweet Mandarin to the highest points of her cheekbones  . Then to create her highlight, using my finger I dabbed Hush Cream Colour Base by MAC to the highpoints of her face including her cheekbones, down the ridge of her nose, her cupids bow and the inner corners of her eyes. Normally when highlighting you can leave it there, but for that extra intensity it’s great to set a cream highlight with a powdered highlight. I used Anastasia Beverly Hills Illuminator in So Hollywood. And girls, if there’s one product I would recommend it’s this beauty..! Absolute crème de la crème of highlighters!! You will think you’ve died and gone to highlight heaven!!

Those LIPS ...

To create a bit of depth to Holly’s lips I used Boldly Bare lip pencil by MAC and teamed it with a mixture of Cerme d’Nude  and Pure Vanity also by MAC. This combo created a beautiful peachy nude lip that is totally wearable for any occasion!!

To finish the look, I then gave another generous spray of MACs Fix + all over Holly’s face to help set the makeup (see I told you I can’t live without it) and there you have it, she was camera ready!